Lining Fabric
Silk and polyester lining fabric by the metre: silk habotai, crepe de chine and sandwash satin, plus polyester and stretch polyester lining, in over 100 colours.
- Silk and polyester
- Plain and stretch
- Over 100 colours
Sold outGuide
Lining Fabric: How to Choose and Sew It
Our silk and polyester linings, how to match a lining to your garment, and tips for sewing one in.
Which lining?
| What it's like | Great for | |
|---|---|---|
| Silk habotai | Very light and smooth, with a soft sheen, 8.5 momme | Dresses, skirts and blouses in light fabrics |
| Silk crepe de chine | Light and soft, with a matte, slightly textured finish, 16 momme | Dresses, skirts and jackets that need a little more body |
| Silk sandwash satin | Soft and fluid, with a satin side and a faille-like matte side, 19 momme | Bridal and evening wear, and luxurious jacket linings |
| Polyester lining | Light and smooth, with a satin face and a matte back, 85 gsm | Dresses, skirts, pants and jackets |
| Stretch polyester lining | Light, with a satin face and a slight one-way stretch, 85 gsm | Fitted dresses and skirts in stretch fabrics |
Silk or polyester lining?
We sell both, and each has its place.
| Silk lining | Polyester lining | |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Soft and smooth against the skin | Smooth and slippery, so garments slide on easily |
| Comfort | Breathes, so it stays comfortable in warm weather | Doesn't breathe as well as silk |
| Wear | Fine and delicate | Hard-wearing |
| Stretch | None (try our stretch silk satin for stretch) | Plain or stretch |
| Certifications | GOTS and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 | None |
Choosing a lining
- Choose a lining a little lighter than your fashion fabric, so it doesn't change how the garment hangs.
- For a garment in a stretch fabric, use a stretch lining, so the lining moves with it.
- Under lace and sheer fabrics the lining shows through, so match it to the fabric, or to your skin tone for an illusion effect.
- For a jacket or coat, a smooth lining like sandwash satin or polyester lining helps it slide on over other clothes.
Cutting
- If you plan to wash the finished garment, read our fabric care guide first, as fashion fabric and lining can behave differently.
- Linings are slippery, so cut as a single layer, laid on paper or a cotton sheet, with pattern weights or pins inside the seam allowance.
- Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter.
- Cut the lining from your garment pattern pieces, leaving out the facings, and add a pleat at the centre back of a jacket lining for ease.
Sewing
- Use a fresh, fine needle (size 60 or 70). For silk habotai and crepe de chine, use a fine mercerised cotton thread. Polyester thread is stronger, but it can make fine silk pucker. Silk thread is lovely for tacking and hand sewing.
- For sandwash satin, use a good-quality polyester or mercerised cotton thread. For polyester and stretch polyester lining, use a good-quality polyester thread.
- Sew with a 2 to 2.5 mm stitch, and hold the lining gently taut in front of and behind the needle as you sew.
- Understitch the seam where the lining meets the facing, so the lining stays inside and doesn't roll out.
- In a skirt or dress, make the lining hem 2 to 3 cm shorter than the garment, and hold the two together at the side seams with a short thread chain if you like.
Hems
A lining is hemmed on its own, so it hangs free. A machine baby hem suits habotai, sandwash satin, crepe de chine and polyester lining: press up 1 cm, stitch close to the fold, trim the allowance right up to the stitching, then turn it once more and stitch again. On stretch lining, use a narrow zigzag or a twin needle so the hem can move with the garment.
Pressing
Press silk linings on a low to medium setting, and polyester linings on the lowest setting, both through a pressing cloth. Test on a scrap first.
Questions
What is the best lining for a silk dress?
Silk habotai for a light dress, or crepe de chine or sandwash satin if you want a little more body.
What lining should I use for a stretch dress?
Our stretch polyester lining, which has a slight one-way stretch, or stretch silk satin.
Is silk or polyester lining better?
Silk breathes and feels soft against the skin. Polyester lining is hard-wearing and slippery, so garments slide on easily. Both work well; it depends on the garment.
What lining goes under lace?
A lining that matches the lace, or one close to your skin tone if you want the lace to look as if it sits on the skin.
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