Crinoline

Our crinolines

• Crinoline. A stiff, firm nylon that holds a skirt out.
• Organza crinoline. Softer and bouncier, with a smoother, less coarse look, in off white, nude and black.
• Metallic crinoline. Stiff and double sided, gold on one side and silver on the other, for sculptural pieces.

Crinoline or net?

Our firmer fabrics for adding volume and shape.

What to make with it

• Petticoats and built-in skirt support
• Structured flounces and hems
• Firm, lightweight support inside bodices
• Sculptural skirts, sleeves and costume

Keeping it comfortable

• Crinoline should never touch the skin. In couture it's built in as an inner layer, sandwiched between the fashion fabric and a smooth silk lining, rather than worn as a separate layer against the body.
• Its cut ends are stiff and sharp, and they'll prickle through a single layer of binding or lining. Seal every cut edge before you enclose it: encase it in bias ribbon, or wrap the ends tightly with thread. You can also gently heat-seal the fibres, testing on a scrap first in a well-ventilated space.
• Plan your pieces so outer edges fall on a fold rather than a cut edge wherever you can.
• Trim back the seam allowances inside the layers, and stagger them so stiff ends don't stack up in one place.

Cutting

• Crinoline is stable, so you can cut a few layers at once.
• Use sharp, heavy scissors, and mark with tailor's chalk.

Sewing

• Use a fresh needle (size 80 or 90) and a fine thread in a matching colour.
• For a firm bodice, two layers of crinoline stitched together over a light base give strong support with less boning.
• For a structured flounce or hem, mount the skirt on an underlining of silk organza or cotton organdy, then hand-stitch the crinoline to the underlining only. The stitches won't show on the outside or the lining.
• Ease the crinoline very slightly along curved edges. If it sags, the edge buckles; if you stretch it too hard, it warps.

Pressing

Crinoline can take a warm iron through a pressing cloth. Organza crinoline and metallic crinoline are more delicate: press seams only, dry, on the lowest setting, through a pressing cloth. Don't use steam on any of them, as it can soften the stiffness. Test on a scrap first.

Questions