Corded Lace Fabric
Lace with a fine raised cord stitched around each motif, so the pattern stands out with a little more body. A classic for bridal bodices and gowns.
- Most lace sold in whole metres
- Panels about 3 m long
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Guide
Corded Lace: Uses and How to Sew It
What makes corded lace special, how it compares with our other laces, what to make with it, and easy tips for sewing it at home.
What is corded lace?
- A raised cord. A fine cord is stitched around each motif, so the pattern stands out.
- A little more body. The cord gives it more definition and structure than a flat Chantilly lace.
- A bridal classic. Lovely for bodices and gowns, and some of our corded laces are also beaded.
Lace types side by side
| Chantilly & fine | Corded | Guipure | Beaded | Stretch | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Look | Delicate motifs on a fine net | Motifs outlined with a raised cord | Bold motifs, no net | Beads, sequins or pearls | Fine lace with stretch |
| Feel | Soft and light | Defined, a bit more body | Firm and heavier | Weighty, with sparkle | Soft and stretchy |
| Sheerness | Very sheer | Sheer | Open, with gaps between motifs | Sheer net, dense beading | Sheer |
| Great for | Sleeves, overlays, soft gowns | Bridal bodices and gowns | Statement dresses and tops | Bridal and evening bodices | Fitted bodices and tops |
| To sew | Easy to moderate | Moderate | Tricky: no net, so it shifts and stretches | Trickiest: beads in the seams | Moderate: needs a stretch stitch |
Buying lace
Most of our lace isn't woven in long bolts like our other fabrics. Each lace panel is made about 3 metres long, so it's sold in whole-metre pieces. Because it's made in pieces, if you order more than the length of one panel, it may come in more than one piece.
What to make with it
- Bridal bodices and gowns
- Sleeves and yokes with a defined pattern
- Skirts with a corded scalloped hem
- Corded motifs cut out and appliquéd onto a gown or veil
Cutting
- Always cut the lace flat on the table as a single layer: don't fold it and cut double.
- Lay it right side up, so you can see the pattern.
- Place the corded scalloped edge along hems, necklines and sleeve ends before you cut.
- Line up the main motifs across seams, and allow extra for matching.
Sewing
- Use a fresh needle (size 70 or 80) and a slightly shorter stitch.
- Try to keep seams away from the cord, or stitch just beside it.
- For invisible joins, overlap two pieces, stitch around a corded motif by hand or with a narrow zigzag, then trim away the extra lace.
- Lace panels on a fitted dress or jacket: lay the lace over each garment piece before you sew. Pin it well in from the edges, trim it back to the seam allowance plus about 1 cm, tack the two layers together by hand, then sew them as one. The seams frame the lace. This works best on structured shapes like a sheath dress or fitted jacket, with a base fabric that has enough body to hold the lace.
What to put under it
Most lace is worn over another layer. Silk organza gives it body, silk satin adds a soft glow, and a soft tulle in a skin tone gives a barely-there look.
Edges
With a corded scalloped edge there's nothing to hem: use the finished edge. You can also cut a scallop from the edge of the lace and stitch it on along the cord.
Pressing
Press face down on a thick, clean towel, on a low setting, through a pressing cloth, so the motifs sink in rather than flatten. Test on a scrap first.
Questions
What is corded lace?
A lace with a fine cord stitched around each motif, so the pattern stands out and the lace has more body.
Corded lace or Chantilly lace?
Corded lace is more defined and has a little more body. Chantilly is softer and flatter.
How is lace sold?
Most of our lace is made in panels about 3 metres long and sold in whole-metre pieces.
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