Polyester Mikado
A heavy, stiff polyester mikado (also called zibeline) with a twill weave and a soft sheen. It holds its shape for structured bridal gowns, skirts and jackets.
- 150 cm wide
- From $39.60 per metre
Guide
Polyester Mikado: Uses and How to Sew It
What polyester mikado (zibeline) is like, how it compares with our other polyesters, and tips for sewing it.
About polyester mikado
- Mikado and zibeline. The same heavy fabric goes by both names: a stiff twill weave with a soft sheen.
- Holds its shape. It stands away from the body, for sculpted bridal skirts and structured jackets.
- Plain or stretch. In ivory, 150 cm wide, with a stretch version that has a little one-way give.
Which polyester?
Our polyester fabrics, side by side.
| Look and feel | Weight | Stretch | Great for | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Polyester dupion | Crisp, with subtle, regular slubs | Mid weight | None | Bridal, skirts and jackets |
| Polyester mikado | Heavy and stiff, with a twill weave and a soft sheen | 215 gsm (stretch: 310 gsm) | None, or one-way | Structured bridal gowns, skirts and jackets |
| Polyester faille | Smooth and matte, soft but voluminous | 246 gsm | None | Bridal, evening wear and costume |
| Faux acetate satin | Delustred satin on both sides, very fluid | 170 gsm | A little mechanical stretch | Draped gowns, bias-cut slips and bridesmaids |
| Liquid satin | Ultra smooth and glossy, with a soft fall | 140 gsm | None | Evening wear, dresses, skirts and tops |
| Stretch polyester satin | Heavy, with a satin face and a matte back | 228 gsm | One-way | Fitted dresses, pants, skirts and bridal |
| Stretch polyester crepe | Heavy, with a textured matte finish | 270 to 304 gsm | Two-way or four-way | Jackets, pants, dresses and bridal |
| Scuba | Heavy and smooth, low sheen on one side, matte on the other | 328 gsm | Two-way | Sculpted gowns, trains, jackets and skirts |
What to make with it
- Structured bridal gowns
- Full and A-line skirts
- Fitted bodices
- Jackets and coats
Cutting
- Cut as a single layer, with all the pieces facing the same way, as the sheen can look different from each direction.
- Use sharp scissors, and pins inside the seam allowance.
- Finish the cut edges with an overlocker or zigzag, as it can fray.
Sewing
- Use a fresh needle (size 90) and a good-quality polyester thread. Use a stretch needle for the stretch mikado.
- Sew with a 2.5 to 3 mm stitch.
- Mikado is stiff and doesn't ease well, so take care setting in sleeves and shaping curves.
- Grade the seam allowances so bulky seams sit flat.
Hems
- Interfaced hem. For a crisp hemline on skirts and jackets, leave a 4 to 5 cm hem allowance. Catch stitch a bias strip of cotton organdy or fusible interfacing along the hemline, turn the hem up over it, and hand stitch with a blind catch stitch, which is strong enough for a heavy fabric.
- Faced hem. On a full or sweeping bridal skirt, a shaped facing gives a clean, flat finish. The strip trimmed off when levelling the hem can be reused as the facing.
- Press only the fold, not over the top edge of the hem allowance, so it doesn't leave a ridge on the outside.
Pressing
Polyester can melt or go shiny under a hot iron, so press on the synthetic (low) setting, through a pressing cloth. Test on a scrap first.
Questions
What is the difference between mikado and zibeline?
They're two names for the same kind of fabric: a heavy, stiff twill weave with a soft sheen.
Is polyester mikado good for a wedding dress?
Yes. It holds its shape well, so it suits structured bridal gowns and full skirts.
How wide is it?
150 cm.
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