Silk Dupion Fabric
Pure mulberry silk dupion (also spelled dupioni or douppioni, and often sold as raw silk or Thai silk), with a smooth finish and a soft glow: the finish most popular in high-end fashion and bridal. Its crisp body suits structured gowns, jackets and soft furnishings.
- 66 colours
- 100% Silk
- From $96.00 per metre
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Guide
Silk Dupion: Uses and How to Sew It
How silk and polyester dupion compare, what our smooth finish means, how dupion compares with taffeta, duchess satin and mikado, and easy tips for sewing it at home.
Silk dupion or polyester dupion?
Not sure which dupion to go for? They're both lovely to sew with. Here's a quick look at how they differ, to help you pick the best one for your project.
| Silk dupion | Polyester dupion | |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre | 100% mulberry silk, a natural fibre | 100% polyester |
| Look | A soft, rich glow and a smooth finish | The crisp dupion look |
| Slubs | Can be more pronounced, and random, because silk is a natural fibre | More subtle, but regular, because they're machine made |
| To wear | Breathes, so it stays comfortable all day | Travels well and is a little less prone to creasing |
| Pressing | Presses flat and sharp at the silk setting | Press at a lower heat setting |
| Colours | Over 60 shades | A smaller range of popular shades |
| Width | 137 cm (white and ivory also 150 cm) | 140 cm |
- Choose silk dupion for a wedding gown, couture piece or anything you'll keep and wear often, where the glow and comfort of real silk matter most.
- Choose polyester dupion for bridesmaid dresses, costumes, decorations, toiles and larger projects, or a dress that needs to travel well.
Smooth or heavily slubbed?
Slubs are the small, thicker spots in the silk thread that give dupion its texture. How many there are changes the whole look of the fabric.
- Our dupion has a smooth finish. It still has some random, natural slubs, but far fewer than a heavily slubbed dupion, so it looks clean and polished, with that soft dupion glow. This is the finish most popular in high-end fashion and bridal.
- Heavily slubbed dupion has a much rougher, more rustic texture. It's mostly used for historical and period costume.
Silk dupion or silk satin dupion?
We also sell silk satin dupion. It has some of the same natural slubs, but it's softer, with a satin sheen, a colour that changes as it moves, and two usable sides.
| Silk dupion | Silk satin dupion | |
|---|---|---|
| Look | A soft glow in one colour | A satin sheen, with a colour that changes as it moves |
| Handle | Crisp | Soft, but holds its shape |
| Sides | One right side | Double sided: both sides usable |
| To sew | Easy: stable and doesn't slip | Take care: pins and unpicking can leave darker lines |
| Great for | Dresses, jackets, cushions and curtains | Sculpted gowns, draped bodices, bows, jackets |
| Colours | Over 60 shades | 5 colours |
Dupion, taffeta, duchess or mikado?
These are our crisp, structured silks. They're all 100% silk, but each has its own look and body.
| Silk dupion | Silk taffeta | Duchess satin | Silk mikado | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Feel | Crisp, with natural slubs | Crisp and smooth, with a rustle | Smooth and weighty | Firm, with a fine diagonal weave |
| Look | Soft glow, subtle texture | Fine, even sheen | Rich satin lustre | Low, pearly sheen |
| Body | Medium | Medium | Firm | The most structure |
| Great for | Dresses, jackets, cushions and curtains | Full skirts, ball gowns, bows | Bridal gowns, fitted bodices | Sculpted gowns, coats, big bows |
| To sew | Easy: stable and doesn't slip | Easy, but shows unpicked stitches | Moderate: shows pin and needle marks | Moderate: thicker to sew through |
| Weight | 90 gsm | 110 gsm | 109 gsm | 174 gsm |
Most dupion colours are 137 cm wide. White and ivory also come in 150 cm.
What to make with it
- Structured dresses, bridesmaid dresses and full skirts
- Fitted jackets, waistcoats and tailored pieces
- Pleats, bows and ruffles that hold their shape
- Cushions, curtains and lampshades
Cutting
- Dupion is stable, so you can cut it folded in two, like most fabrics.
- Lay all your pattern pieces facing the same way: the sheen can look slightly different from each direction.
- Dupion frays quickly, so finish the edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch soon after cutting.
Sewing
- Use a fresh, medium needle (size 70 or 80) and a good-quality polyester or mercerised cotton thread in a standard weight. Silk thread is lovely for tacking and hand sewing.
- Pin inside the seam allowance and try not to unpick: needle holes can show.
- Line dresses and jackets for a smooth, comfortable finish inside. Silk habotai makes a lovely lining.
Hems
Dupion frays, so bind the hem: turn up 4 to 5 cm, wrap the raw edge in a bias strip of silk habotai, and blindstitch it by hand to the underlining, so no stitches show on the right side. For a skirt that stands away from the body, interface the hem with a bias strip of cotton organdy first.
Pressing
Use a dry iron on the silk setting, on the wrong side, with a pressing cloth. No steam or water spray: water drops can leave spots on dupion. Test on a scrap first.
Questions
Is silk dupion raw silk?
No. Dupion is often called raw silk or Thai silk, but ours is 100% mulberry silk: a crisp silk with a soft glow and small natural slubs. Dupioni and douppioni are other spellings of dupion. Ours has a smooth finish and comes in over 60 colours.
Why does silk dupion have small slubs in it?
Slubs are thicker spots in the silk thread. They're natural, not a fault. Our dupion has a smooth finish, so its slubs are random and natural, but much less pronounced than in a heavily slubbed dupion.
Should I line silk dupion?
For dresses and jackets, yes. A lining makes it softer against the skin and helps it hang well.
Does silk dupion crease?
A little, like most natural fabrics. Creases press out easily with a dry iron and a pressing cloth.
What is the difference between silk dupion and satin dupion?
Silk dupion is crisp, with a soft glow in one colour. Silk satin dupion has a satin sheen and a colour that changes as it moves, a softer handle that still holds its shape, and two usable sides. Its satin surface is more delicate, so pins and unpicked stitching can leave marks.
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