Medium Weight Silk Fabric
Medium weight silks by the metre: crisp dupion and taffeta, structured duchess and queen satins, plus a softer washed dupion and a midweight crepe de chine. For dresses, jackets and bridal gowns.
- Crisp and structured
- Dupion in over 60 shades
- 137 to 150 cm wide
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Guide
Medium Weight Silk Fabric: How to Choose and Sew It
How our medium weight silks compare, which one suits your project, and easy tips for sewing them at home.
Which medium weight silk?
These silks have body: they hold a crisp or sculpted shape for dresses, jackets and bridal gowns.
| Dupion | Taffeta | Duchess satin | Queen satin | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Feel | Crisp, with natural slubs | Crisp and smooth, with a rustle | Very structured, sculptural in one direction | Soft, but holds its shape |
| Look | Soft glow, subtle texture | Fine, even sheen | Low-sheen, delustred satin | Low-sheen, delustred satin |
| Great for | Dresses, jackets, cushions and curtains | Full skirts, ball gowns, bows | Structured gowns and bodices | Voluminous couture and bridal shapes |
| To sew | Easy: stable and doesn't slip | Easy, but shows unpicked stitches | Stays put, but shows pin marks | Stays put, but shows pin marks |
| Weight | 90 gsm | 110 gsm | 109 gsm | 117 gsm |
| Width | 137 cm (white and ivory also 150 cm) | 137 cm | 140 cm | 140 cm |
Also in this range: washed silk dupion, 140 cm wide, with very fine slubs and a soft, low lustre: the wash takes out the crispness, so it follows the body for gathered and draped pieces. Midweight crepe de chine, 23 momme, a heavier crepe de chine with a soft, fluid fall for dresses, skirts and pants. And silk satin 25mm, 25 momme (108 gsm) in a warm ivory, 137 cm wide: lustrous on one side and matte on the other, super soft, for draping and layering, blouses, lingerie and luxurious linings.
Looking for something else? See our sheer silks, lightweight silks, heavyweight silks or stretch silks, or all our silks.
Which medium weight silk for your project?
| Making | Silks to try |
|---|---|
| Structured bridal gowns | Duchess satin or queen satin |
| Ball gowns and full skirts | Taffeta or queen satin |
| Dresses, jackets and waistcoats | Dupion |
| Gathered and draped pieces | Washed silk dupion, midweight crepe de chine or silk satin 25mm |
| Cushions and curtains | Dupion |
Cutting
- Pin only inside the seam allowance, or use pattern weights: satins and taffeta show pin marks.
- Dupion and taffeta are stable, so you can cut them folded double, with all the pieces facing the same way.
- Dupion frays quickly, so finish the edges with an overlocker or zigzag soon after cutting.
- Mark on the wrong side with tailor's chalk, tested on a scrap first. Avoid wax-based markers: they can leave spots.
Sewing
- Use a fresh, sharp needle (size 70 or 80) and a good-quality polyester or mercerised cotton thread in a standard weight. Silk thread is lovely for tacking and hand sewing.
- Sew a test seam first, and try not to unpick: needle holes and unpicked stitches can show.
- Taffeta can't really be eased, so where a pattern eases a sleeve head, use small darts, pleats or gathers instead. See sewing taffeta.
- Line dresses and jackets for a smooth, comfortable finish inside. Silk habotai makes a lovely lining.
- Handle satins with clean, dry hands to keep them pristine.
Hems
On medium-weight silks such as dupion and crepe satin, a bound hem is the couture finish: turn up 3 to 5 cm, wrap the raw edge in a bias strip of silk habotai, and blindstitch it by hand so nothing shows on the right side. On bias-cut pieces, a machine baby hem keeps the edge fluid.
Pressing
Press from the wrong side on the silk setting, through a pressing cloth, with no steam: water drops can leave marks. Press seams open over a seam roll or a rolled towel, so the edges don't mark the right side. Test on a scrap first.
Questions
Which medium weight silk is best for a wedding dress?
Duchess satin for a structured, sculptural gown, queen satin for soft volume that holds its shape, and taffeta or dupion for crisp full skirts.
Duchess satin or queen satin?
Duchess satin is very structured and sculptural in one direction. Queen satin is softer, but still holds its shape, so it suits voluminous shapes.
Dupion or taffeta?
Both are crisp silks with body. Taffeta is smooth with a slight sheen, while dupion has natural slubs that give it texture.
Should I line medium weight silk?
For dresses and jackets, yes. A lining makes it more comfortable and helps it hang well.
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